We plucked up courage to slide out of our beds, and set off at 6.30 am looking for some piping hot chai (tea), before our trek to Savitri Mata temple, and spent the next few minutes, soaking in the soft winter vibe before the sunrise. We walked down a few kilometers, to take the ropeway (cable car) to reach the temple.
Savitri Mata temple is located on the top of Ratnagiri Hill, behind the Brahma Temple. The temple has 2 idols. One of Savitri Mata and the other of Goddess Saraswati, her daughter (I was told). We offered our prayers at the temple, and spent some time in the vicinity, enjoying the picturesque view of Pushkar. Since the temple is at an elevation of 750 feet, it offers a mesmerizing view of the ancient city, Pushkar lake, and its surrounding villages.
On our way back, we hopped on to a Tuk Tuk for Rs. 40/- to drop us around the Brahma Temple road. We were hungry as a hippo by now, and walked towards the Choti Basti to begin our food indulgence. Spoiled for choice, we eventually settled for a combination of savory and sweet starting with Pizza Pakwan to Curry Pakodi and the Rabdi Malpua. Pushkar is indeed a food connoisseur delight.
The distinguished flavors of Rajasthani cuisine comes from a culture that has churned the best from its neighboring states of Sindh, Gujrat, Haryana and Punjab and so, you may find lots of Rajasthani delicacies influenced by the cuisines of these states.
This day also offered me a glimpse of simpler life, as I spent time getting lost in the alleys and the lanes, admiring the art wall murals, interacting with the locals and discovering the magic of this tranquil town.
Walking through these lanes, I landed up in a residential courtyard with several women clad in colorful sarees, celebrating the pre-wedding festivities of an impending wedding. I spent some time chatting up with the ladies, and the groom who had his hands colored with Mehendi(a traditional Indian practice applied in beautiful intricate designs, similar to a temporary tattoo).
Well I also received an invite for an evening function, but I had a lot to cover on my agenda and couldn’t make it there ☹
It was past noon by now, and most temples in Pushkar are shut between 1.00 pm to 4.00 pm and so, we started our temple hopping tour visiting the Gurudwara Singh Sabha. The magnificent complex of the gurudwara, made up of white marble, had an air of divinity surrounding it. Walking through the gurudwara premises, the calm and serene energy of the place grounded us and made us feel at peace. We paid our homage, received the customary blessings in the form of khara-prasad from a sevadar (voluntary helpers), who also led us to the langar (free kitchen) hall, where we had a humble yet delicious meal, that also doubled up as our lunch for the day.
We spent the next few hours admiring the Rangji temples, adobe of Lord Vishnu. A rather rare appearance, the New Rangji and the Old Rangji temple display a unique confluence of Tamil, Rajput and Mughal style of architecture.
Offering our prayers to the deities, we made our way to visit the Varaha temple, after. This temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu’s third incarnation i.e Varaha or boar. It is a very old temple and must have been a big and important temple in ancient age. It seems to have lost its importance and popularity since we were the only folks hanging around in the premises. Since it was a part of my to-do, we went searching for it.
It was time for some quick snack and refreshments before starting for the evening aarti at the Brahma Ghat this day. Aarti around the Pushkar lake takes place at Varaha, Gau and Brahma Ghat (at the Savitri Ghat that is next to the Brahma Ghat).
Walking down the vivid ghats soaking in the sound of temple bells and hymns alongside the ghats, greeted by Pandas (Priest) clad in dhoti’s and tikka on their forehead, witnessing the aarti, watching the evening filled with the gold of setting sun and the lake looking gorgeous with numerous floating diyas was blissful.
We proceeded to visit the Brahma Temple from here. The last and the most important of our temple hopping expedition. The temple is built on a high plinth, so we had to climb a flight of marble stairs to enter the temple. This entrance opened into a huge outdoor hall, built up of blue-colored pillars. As we walked through this hall, towards the sanctum, we were in awe of the ancient architecture and the surreal vibe of the place. The sanctum housed the image of four headed Brahma, along with his consort, Gayatri. Although crowded, the temple complex had an aura of peace, as devotees from several parts of the world offered their prayers and basked in the tranquility of the place. We paid obeisance to Lord Brahma and it was time to do our favorite thing, Shopping and make use of our “Art of Haggling”
We shopped for everything we could lay our hands on, from apparels to rose products, leather goods, handicrafts, silver jewelry, shawls and returned to our hotel with a sense of accomplishment.
Our late evening craving for chai after relishing on some yummy Italian food at the hotel’s roof top restaurant led us to a chai wala at the Main Square. To our surprise, the stall was packed with tourist, some holding chai and some holding a chillum. With the beats of loud music from nearby cafes we wondered if we are sitting under an open sky or a disco.
The chai scene brought me back to a brief interaction I had with a guest in our hotel who asked me out for a beer the previous night. That’s when It was revealed to me that it was “Party Time” in Pushkar.
Although the town shuts by 11.00 p.m, as the sun sets, the city transforms into a Party place with numerous tourists flocking to the hostels and cafes that are open until late in the night. Several of these hostels and cafes have live music or karaoke to keep the night alive, along with some lip-smacking food, where people can spend the night smoking and enjoying themselves in the company of fellow trippers.
Well, for us poor souls, it was time to hit the sack and take an early morning ride to Osian with a promise to this magnificent city that we shall return. Very Soon!